There’s a focus on artisanal and handcrafted happening right now, likely one of endless attempts to push away from the table of fast, homogenized fashion and step into something a little more individualized and exclusive. Koonhor was just one of the brands doing this with fringe, intricate prints, graphic and cotton tapestry tunics. 

Proportions and silhouette were an important component of the presentation told in part by the Balenciaga-esque sculptural hats that shielded the heads of a few models. Silhouettes were loose with long sweeping sweatshirts and pleated skirts, turning the feminine figure into a column. Sleeveless asymmetrical vests, trench coats and leather pouches (the fringe was here as well) embedded the city and a sportiness into the collection, which was at its strongest with the aforementioned doodle graphic print in black and white. 

Key Hair: Adam Livermore for Oribe Care Hair, Kien Hoang for Oribe Hare Care, Oribe Hair Care Team. Special Thanks to Talia Thomas of Oribe Hair Care



There was something that felt a bit like an Army medic or a Girl Scout at the Ostwald Helgason show, even though the notes point to East Germany. Maybe the clash between the scarcity in the region before the toppling of the wall and the longing for beauty there is akin to how a particularly creative woman might do to individualize and feminize her uniform -- adding crocheted embellishments to the collar, and switching drab polos out with glinting thread -- but that's at least what it felt like. Even the color palette, military green and cargo beige to a burnt orange and sky blue, as well as the fabrications, burlap to organza, told this story.

But no matter which story you looked to, there was a heavy utility focus with Velcro straps and oversized pockets amongst them, and a dash of sex appeal with wrap skirts exposing the upper thigh while slashed back seams of button-ups put on a little show. The result was beautiful in a Solange knowledge, quirky type of way. In fact, it seemed she was present there on the runway as a baby blue version of her MET Gala look done in organza flitted amongst the procession.

Key Hair: Ramona Eschbach for Jed Root. Oribe Hair Care Team. Kien Hoang for Oribe Hair Care. Yanin Colmenero | Umbrella Salon

Photo by: Gio Staiano